Sunday, 10 June 2012

BIWC Sewing Class for June: PJ Pants

For our June BIWC sewing class we will be making the pants from McCall's Pattern M5990 (bought online for 11,90 € including postage).

I am about to start my test run & add instructions for the ladies taking the class, so that they can arrive at the class with their pieces cut out correctly & ready to sew!

Open out your pattern directions & see which pieces you need to trace (14, 15, 16).
Open out your pattern pieces & find the pieces you need.  I find it helpful to mark the sheet like this:

so that I know at a glance which sheet to open out in future!  Time saving steps!!

You may find it easier if you give the pattern a quick (cool, dry) iron to remove creases & ensure your tracing is accurate.

For the pants, you only need pieces 14, 15 & 16, but I am going to add a pocket (piece 2) to the back of one side of the pants (just for fun) and see how that goes!

Get out your pattern paper (I bought a roll, but you can buy sheets - I like the Burda sheets, which are available in most fabric stores, EBay, Amazon...) & either trace by hand or use your tracing wheel to go around your size on the McCall's pattern, copying all marks and notches etc onto your paper.  This pattern includes a 1.5cm seam allowance.  If it didn't, I would add the seam allowance to each piece as I cut out the pattern (that way I do not forget it when I cut out from fabric!).  I never cut out directly from the pattern UNLESS I am 100% sure of my size, and am also 100% sure I will never want to make this design for someone else - so never really!

Here you see them EXACTLY as per my size on pattern sheet
I mark them with: 
pattern name
 '1 of 4',  '2 of 4' ...
Piece number & name (Piece 14 Front)
What they are for (PJ Pants)


Use the waistline mark on the pattern to measure how long to make your pants.  Measure on yourself:  waist to hemline (of pants).  Make your pattern pieces that length, remembering to add a seam allowance for the hem (4cm) & deducting the trim width (6cm after fold & seam join).  Lengthen / Shorten on line provided.

I prefer hipster PJ pants, so I will shorten the top as well - on the line provided - by simply folding the pattern in on itself on that line & taping in place.  See pattern instructions (that came with your pattern) if you are not 100% sure how to do this.
Make sure you do EXACTLY the same to back & front!

You can see I have folded the top over - 4cm fold on back & front, starting at the lengthen/shorten line
And I have shortened the length to suit me.

Now get your fabrics out.
Have a look at the instruction sheet to see best way to lay the pattern pieces on your fabric, depending on the width of the fabric you have chosen.

MAKE SURE you adhere to the grain line direction!!!!
Not sure what grain line is?  It refers to the threads of the fabric that run the length of the fabric, parallel to the selvage.
Still not sure?  Read this

Make sure you cut out ALL the notches on the pattern exactly onto the fabric like the black arrows show in this pic:
I have just moved the pattern piece away so you can see the fabric clearly... the notches do actually meet up perfectly.

Then I topped the pocket with cotton lace & bias binding & stitched it onto one of the back pieces in the correct place...

At this point, you will be ready for the class on Thursday!!  (With or without the pocket added, up to you).

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