Friday, 15 June 2012

Changing the PJ pants pattern for Men

Yesterday I gave another BIWC Sewing class where we made really pretty PJ Pants!

Here is the BIWC announcement from the newsletter & website:

Di Venter
Drawstring Cotton  Pajama Pants 

Thursday, 14 June at 10.00 

These cool cotton pants are great for lazy summer days at home or on holiday.  Crisp and cool with clean
lines to the design.  These are the ultimate in comfort!
This design is easy to adjust for men as well.
►Venue:  Di’s home
PLEASE NOTE: You need a sewing machine for this class
Click here to find out about becoming a member!

We used a lovely pattern from McCall - you can read all about it here as well as how to use a pattern if you are new to it.
The part we did not get to in Thursday's class was where I would show you how to convert the pattern for Men!
It is actually quite easy... you will see!

LEAVE lots of space around the traced piece as we will be adding to it, AND DO NOT CUT IT OUT YET!!!!

Measure your man & trace the correct pattern size for him (only pieces 14 & 15) 
Make the following adaptations:
1.  drop the crotch seam by about 4cm back & front.  
2.  extend the crotch out 3cm
3.  IF the bottom of the leg is now too wide (a clown pants look is not what we are going for here) then take in the pattern as shown in diag. (red line 3).  Do not take in any above the hip line though.
4.  Then remove the strip at the top of each piece where you are supposed to fold over to add the elastic... on the men's pants we will add a separate waist band.
ALWAYS do exactly the same to the front piece(14) & the back piece(15)!!
5.  Now, add to the length so that piece 16 is not needed... I don't think men will like a colorful band at the bottom with ribbon trim some how.  Measure your man from his waistline to the hem of his pants & extend back & front (pieces 14 & 15) by the difference, adding 4cm for a hem.

Now we need to make the standard 'button fly' for the pants.
For this we only adapt FRONT pieces.
Look at the sleep shorts here

Make the fly piece as per instructions for sleep shorts:

Men's boxers fold right over left, so you need to iron a double fold (4mm or so) in the fly of the right hand side piece & stitch this in place.
Then iron a 4mm fold on the left hand side piece, and then iron the whole fly piece to the wrong side at the curve line...

Now place the two sides right sides together matching the crotch curve & unfold the folds on the left piece. Pin in place:
Stitch with a foot wide seam & then use your pinking shears to trim the edge to prevent fraying without having a thick seam - more comfortable!

Add buttons & button holes to the front - one or two buttons, up to you!
Make sure you use flat buttons for comfort. Do not add them too close to the top seam as this is where you will join the waist band on.
Match up the open seam on top & stitch down across the opening with a single row of straight stitches to keep the two parts lined up when you add the waist band next.

Then join the back panels RST together at the crotch seam.
Now you join the inner leg seams, but you will go all the way from one leg to the other in one seam, joining back to front panels the whole length.  Then do side seams.
The only change after this will be that you will need to cut a waist band, double the width of your elastic + seam allowance + top stitching allowance, and the same length as the waist of your stitched up pants, measuring from the back seam around, adding a seam allowance.  You will join it on much the same way the pattern tells you to add the bottom seam onto the lady's pants (piece 16), but leave a gap in the first joining seam to thread the elastic through, then join waist band to pants all the way around, and zig zag this seam.  I like to add a top stitching seam to the top of the waist band about 3mm from the top.  It makes a nice finish once the elastic is inserted, and prevents the elastic 'rolling' in it's channel.
Once you have added your elastic, you will close the gap you left for it by hand.
Hem your pants (after ensuring they are the correct length).
All done!  

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