Tuesday, 17 February 2015

Basic Handbag Tutorial

In your MadeByDi box, you will find:

Inside the 'Bag of Things'...

All seams are the width of your machine's presser foot unless otherwise mentioned

You will need to cut:
2 x pattern pieces (full) for lining
2 x A for Lower Bag
2 x( B + 2cm) for Upper Bag
2 x Volume interfacing (full pattern piece)
a strip of fabric as long as your Rigilene, 6cm wide.  If you need to join fabric strips to get one strip long enough, join the fabric on the bias
Click here if you need help with this

Before you start sewing, replace your sewing machine's needle with a Universal 80.

Now, we will wrap the fabric strip we have created around the Rigilene, making sure the Rigilene is secure within the fabric, and the fold of the fabric lines up with one side of the Rigilene.

Wrap at one end, and place under your machine's presser foot.  Put the foot & needle down, and then wrap as you stitch, keeping your line of stitching close to the long edge

This is easier to do than trying to get it wrapped the entire length and trying to pin in place

If you wish to, stitch a line of top stitching on the other long edge of the Rigilene handle you have made, so that you have two lines of matching stitching on either long edge, please do so now.

Two rows of matching stitching:

Trim away the scruffy ends (not too much!) WITH PAPER SCISSORS!!!  Cutting Rigilene will result in blunt sewing scissors!
Find the middle, and cut in half, creating two equal handles

Well done, you have completed the hardest part of making this bag!

We will now join Bag outer A to B
Place them right sides together, lining up top edges, and sew with straight stitch, using your foot width as a seam guide.

Press seams towards A

Iron your iron on interfacing (large piece from your box) to wrong side of each

Tips for ironing on interfacing:
Make certain the sticky side (shiny side) is on the wrong side of your fabric 
Trim away any overlapping interfacing where it doesn't lie on fabric.  If you iron over uncovered interfacing, either your iron, or your ironing board will be a sticky mess!
If you are doing this for the first time, cover your ironing board with baking paper and place your work fabric side down so that any excess interfacing will stick to the baking paper instead of sticking to your ironing board
Don't move your iron back & forward.  Place in one spot, leave for 3 seconds, lift, move along, repeat until all attached
Topstitch a NEAT row of longer length stitches along the top edge of A

I have used a long stitch length, and a triple stitch for my topstitching.

Place your volume interfacing behind each of your two bag pieces
Place the pattern over this and mark where the bag feet will go (holes on pattern piece)

I use a Pilot Frixion pen (from the stationery store) as it can iron off - see here when I discovered this!

 Open the 'legs' of the bag feet so that they are parallel
Mark 2mm lines either side of the parallel legs
Use your quick unpick to make SAFE holes - like I taught you in class
Pop the legs of the bag feet through the fabric from right side to wrong side
Bend them outwards
Cover with small piece of iron on interfacing from pack

Place these bag outer pieces right sides together
Line up sides of Bag - ignore volume interfacing - you can cut away any excess
Sew side seams together - ENSURING you have lined up the line where the Bag Base fabric meets the Bag Upper fabric
(where fabric A met fabric B should line up perfectly)
If you have a tag, this is where you will want to add it into the seam
Want to make your own tags?  Look at this Pin
Sew the base edges together

Unclear?  In pic below, you sew where the red dotted lines and the red arrow are
But do nothing on the corners yet 
(where it says 'leave these')

Then, working where the green arrows point to:
Push out the corners and stitch down to form the depth of the bag
MAKING sure you line up the seams!

Not sure?  Watch this video from Deby Coles - So Sew Easy on how to join the corners
Watch from 6:30 just for the corners.  Lovely video!

Test all the seams to ensure you have caught all the fabric well
If you find a bit you have missed, go over that seam again

Use your paper pattern to mark the placement for the bag handles
Stitch them in place, ensuring you don't twist them, using the line you have marked as the middle of the strap end

See the two notches at the top of the paper pattern (above) - those are the bag placement notches

I sew back and forward quite a few times, this is where your bag will take the most strain!

Put your bag outer aside, we will now work on the lining!

Using the hole on your paper pattern, mark the magnetic popper's placement (pen is through this mark in photo below)
Mark this on WRONG side of both pieces of lining fabric

Iron on a piece of the thicker small pieces of interfacing in your pack over these marks
I have cut mine into little circles, just big enough to fit under the popper

 Use the paper pattern to again mark the spots

Use the popper backing (washer) as a template to mark where you need to make the slits for the popper's legs.  Use the circle in the middle of the piece to line up with the spot you drew from the paper pattern
Mark the two lines either side
It doesn't matter for this project which side of the popper goes onto each lining piece, as long as the right side of the popper shows on the right side of the fabric

Use your quick unpick to make SAFE holes again
Put the popper part through the holes you have made from right side of fabric

ENSURE the two parts line up!

If you have made a mistake, remove the popper part, cover the holes you have made with a piece of interfacing from your pack (you can also stitch over the holes if need be, but normally a piece of interfacing will suffice) and reposition your popper correctly

Place the 'washer' over the popper's legs

Bend the legs inwards so that they are safely tucked away and cannot rub the fabric

Cover with a small piece of iron on interfacing from your pack

 Place the two lining pieces right sides together 

Sew as you did for the bag outer BUT leave the seam between the pins in the picture below free - don't sew this bit up - as you will use this gap to turn the bag the right way through.
You need at least a 10cm opening to be able to turn your bag through.  Be sure to secure both ends of your stitching so that it doesn't pull out when turning bag through

Do the corners as you did for bag outer

Place the bag outer (right side out) inside the bag lining (right side in) 
so that the right sides of the fabric are together

Make sure they are exactly the same size.
If they are not, take the bigger one in on both sides so that the top seams match 100%

Matching the side seam of bag lining to side seam of bag outer, work your way around the top seam of your bag (with a straight stitch), using the first line on the metal plate of your machine as your seam allowance guide.

And now for the magic....
Use the opening you left to turn the bag right way out

Press the seam flat

Roll the seam so that it lies perfectly and iron in place

Top stitch around top edge as close to top edge as you can, making sure you sew a nice straight line

Close the gap in the lining by hand / with your machine

You are done!!!

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